There is this scene in [[Eat Pray Love]] where the main character goes to Italy in order to start living life after having just decided to break up her immature marriage and she finds herself in a cafe in Rome, everybody shouting, contrino in hand, to get their orders for morning coffee fulfilled. Next to our Airbnb there was a small, stylish coffee place that we decided would be our headquarters for this trip. The atmosphere was nothing as chaotic as in that movie scene but of course you do get your only if you make eye contact with a waiter the moment you enter, shout the type of coffee you want over the counter, make yourself known when you want to pay. Some other patrons greet you, come sta, da dove venite, some are dressed with clothes that shout even louder how proud they are of existing. I do not go to Italy for the temples and churches and history and the design or the food as much anymore as I do for the people. The first day you are meek and overwhelmed and then by day two you feel your body brimming with energy because you too start to express yourself, to see and be seen, to exist in public. The other day, back in Le Puy, a friend who used to be a fitness trainer told us, she made her clients shout and puff to get them pumped up for exercise. A singer doesn't just randomly exhale but their whole body is taught like a vibrating string. This vibrating mode of existince is the most fascinating part of italy.